Trash to Treasure: High Fashion, Low Waste
By George Marre
Fall 2023

In today’s day and age there are thousands of clothing brands in the United States alone. Each of these clothing brands are designing and making new styles of clothes every season. And in most cases these brands will make too many clothes: not all of their products will be purchased.
Americans are fortune to have access to clothes that come in different styles and sizes. While in most developing countries people only have one outfit for the week. Americans are fortunate for the amount of clothes we have but we often take for granted having accesses to a closet full of clothes. But what do we do with these clothes when they don't fit, or we simply don't want to wear them anymore? In most cases people will throw those clothes away and they will get sent to landfills all across the world. What a waste!
What is fashion waste?
When these clothes get thrown out and sit at landfills to decompose overtime, it’s called fashion waste. We have all heard of pollution that comes from cars, factories, and even cows. But the pollution that comes from the fashion industry is often overlooked. Many people love clothes and fashion. One main reason is because of the fashion trends that take over social media. People from the age 18-30 are the main consumers of online clothing stores or fast fashion sites. Fast fashion is one of the top contributors to fashion waste. Fast fashion is a huge industry where companies will mass produce clothing items for very cheap. This makes the clothes very accessible to almost all of the consumers. These companies mass producing these clothes becomes a problem because of the amount they make.
Fashion waste isn’t just caused by you throwing away clothes. Although that is a cause, there are many other contributing factors that are part of fashion waste. A website called Fashinza does a great job explaining these factors in their article “Everything you need to know about waste in the fashion industry” There are things like manufacturing waste, packaging waste, and toxic waste. These three things are all caused by the people who make the clothes. These factories contribute to polluting the air from the machines they use to manufacture the clothes. They can pollute the water that surrounds the plant. They can even put the people who work at these plants in danger because the materials they work with can be toxic.
What is waste?
What is waste? Waste is having too much of something, where it is not needed. I’m not saying we don’t need clothes, because we do. We don’t want to see everyone running around naked here. But we make too much. How many of you think you have ten articles of clothing? How many say 25? 50? Well, I would say if we all were to count every single piece of clothing in our personal possession, we would have upwards of 100 pieces each. In my personal experience I know that’s true for myself. And I also know I may only wear the same 3 hoodies and 3 pants every week. I also know there are plenty of clothes that sit in my room that never get worn. But holding onto these clothes and not wearing them is better than putting them in the trash.
Having those extra clothes in my room is a waste. But it’s even more wasteful to throw those clothes away when there are so many options for what to do with them instead.
Why should you care?
This is a great question. Well, to those of you that are in college let’s talk! College students are some of the most impressionable people. When new trends are set, we want to be the first people to be part of it. people will see the latest celebrity or influencer trend and we want to be just like them. In this generation, social media has taken over the world. Apps like TikTok, Instagram, Snapchat and so many more are all available in the palm of your hands. Social media influencers have impacted fashion trends in a huge way.
Designers and other higher ups of fashion companies want to focus on these influencers to promote their clothing. Once they do that, more people will want to wear those clothes. For example, in 2022 there was a certain influencer who made a video of her wearing a certain type of shoe. After that every store around the Chicago land area sold out of this shoe within a week.
These trends shift so often that in some cases people will change wardrobes almost every other month just to keep up with the fashion trends. Now what happens to these clothes that people say are out of style?
What is fast fashion?
Another reason why you should care would be fast fashion. Fast fashion is one of the cheapest and easiest ways to get new clothes and keep up with the trends. In most cases, you can buy a whole new wardrobe without leaving your bed.
I don’t want to name drop and talk down on some of these sites, but if you are buying a whole new wardrobe for under $100 something has got to be wrong. I’m not saying that the clothes you are buying are not actual clothes, or they will make your skin green. I mean there is something going on behind the scenes that is not good.
These fast fashion sites make so many clothes that it is one of the main causes to why there is so much pollution from fashion. With these cheap clothes there comes a lot of problems. They may shrink or get ruined in the wash. They may not fit the way you want so when you get them you don’t want them. They may only look good the first time you wear them. This being said the aftermath of what we do with these clothes after we get them is crazy.
Sustainability in fashion
Sustainability in the fashion industry is defined as making or buying clothes in a responsible way where you recognize the effects to the environment. When you recognize what it does to the environment, you can help reduce waste and pollution by using more ecofriendly materials, producing fewer products, buying less, and never throwing away items. The big thing that comes up in discussions when talking about this is Retail. I got the chance to talk to two specialists in this industry and what they said is truly intriguing.
Eric Johnson is a retail and wholesale senior level professional who has been working in the industry for over 25 years now. When I asked him about his thoughts on sustainability in the retail industry, he said that “sustainability is a fairly new term in the fashion industry, I feel like most retailers have been contributing more towards the problem than the solution.” He explained that these big retail companies buy so much product or produce so much product that it is doing more harm than helping the planet. He says that some materials are worse for the environment than others. He told me that denim is one of the worst products when it comes to pollution and fashion waste, and pointed out an article called Critical Review on Sustainability in Denim: A Step toward Sustainable Production and Consumption of Denim. This article shows you all the way the production of denim contributes to the amount of pollution in the fashion industry. Finally, we talked about what retail companies should do to be more sustainable and his big statement was: “Buy less.” The fewer products we have in circulation the fewer clothing items will end up in landfills. I think this is a key thing to understand for consumers as well. Because if we buy less and have less clothing items in our possession than it will reduce the chance that we will throw away items.
Jason Contraveos has been in managerial and senior level positions in the retail industry for over 15 years now. And he has been buying and collection clothes and shoes for longer than that. He says he would rather save his clothing items over long periods of time rather than getting rid of them. He says he rents storage units where he stores his old clothes and shoes because he doesn’t want to throw them away. One positive to that he said is that a lot of those clothes are worth a lot more money now than they was when he bought them. In the fashion industry now, he says it’s better to save clothes and shoes and let them appreciate in value over time than to throw them away. This is good for two reasons: one being you will make money from buying these items, and the other being you are helping the planet because you’re keeping clothes out of landfills.
With these cheap clothes there comes a lot of problems. They may shrink or get ruined in the wash. They may not fit the way you want so when you get them you don’t want them. They may only look good the first time you wear them.
How can you help slow down fashion waste?
The most important way to slow down fashion waste is to work together. We are a team on this planet and if we all are not doing our part we will fail. We need to work together and spread the word on this problem and start doing the correct steps to help prevent further damage. When you are in a situation where you think you have to throw away clothing, take a step back and reassess your situation. Taking this step back will help you regroup your thoughts and think more clearly on what you can do with all of these clothes. There are so many situations where you have a chance to recycle or donate clothing rather than throwing it out. Some more common situations include:
· Reorganizing a room
· A shift in seasons
· Seeing that some clothes don’t fit the same
· Seeing that some of your clothes just don’t look as good as they used to
· Wanting to try a new fashion style
· Shift in trends
· Moving in or out of a place you live
· Not having enough room in your closet
If you don’t like any of the ideas I’m going to give you on what to do than there are so many options online where people will take your clothes.
Thrifting
Let’s talk about how we can shop more sustainably. When you hear about shopping sustainably you think about buying clothes that are made out of recycled materials, and you hear about thrifting. Buying clothes that are made of recycled materials is good and all, but some big companies and organizations that sell them tend to bump the price. Why is that? These sustainable materials cost more for them to get therefore they will charge the consumers more for them to buy it. In a perfect world these clothing items that are more sustainable for the planet would be cheaper and easily accessible. But it’s not a perfect world and we have to work with what we have.
One way we can move forward is thrifting. Thrifting is where you would buy secondhand clothes from people who donate those items to certain stores. I understand that not everyone wants to wear another person’s hand me downs. But you have to think of clothing as a cycle. For example, the best way the fashion can circulate is if someone buys a shirt from a fashion company than when they get tired of it, they donate it, next someone else will buy it and wear it for a while and then if it’s still in good condition they will donate it again, but if it’s not than they can recycle it and it would be turned into new clothes. This is the best way to shop more sustainably and keep clothes out of the landfills.
Sidney Marquardt is a college student at North Central College. He has been thrifting for about 5-6 years now. I interviewed him to see his insights on thrifting and the pros and cons regarding the topic and he saw no cons in thrifting. He believes thrifting is “good, it gives college students a way to express themselves the way they want to because everything is unique and cost effective”. One of the biggest pros of thrifting besides the sustainability aspect is the cost. For example, Sidney was able to buy new clothes for the upcoming winter for around $75. Those clothes he bought would retail around a total of $200-$250.
Sidney said that he would rather thrift clothing than buy them off of a fast fashion website because of the way he views clothes. He believes that clothing items should be treated as a cycle “to make sure that no clothes go to waste” He strongly believes in donating his old clothes so that other people who may be less fortunate can have a chance to own clothes like him.
Upcycling
Upcycling has recently been very popular on social media platforms in 2023 because it’s a way to turn old clothes into new clothing items without giving them away. Upcycling does take a little more time and needs more creativity because with upcycling you will physically turn an old item into something completely different that you can wear. There are plenty of influencers on TikTok that show how to upcycle.
Sidney said, “When I would see these clothes I am about to throw away, I would always think to myself what a waste that is”, so with the clothes he wouldn’t donate, he decided to try to upcycle. “I learned through social media influencers that I can turn these clothes back into blank materials and make a personal piece I can wear every day.” He talked about how this is his favorite way to be more sustainable in the fashion industry. The only downside was that he had to teach himself how to sew, but the creativity part came pretty natural for him.
So, for the clothes that you don’t want to give away just yet, or you don’t want to recycle, I would say this is the best idea for you. It gives your clothes a lot more personality when you make them yourself. Plus, the feeling of seeing an old piece of clothing you never wear turn into something you are very proud of is amazing.
Textile recycling
Textile recycling is one of the best ways to recycle old clothing. I would consider this a last resort for clothes. Basically, it will turn your old clothes into new material to make new clothes. There are a lot of different places around the US that do textile recycling, so it is fairly easy to find a place to just drop off clothes.
When talking about fashion waste, this is one of the biggest ways to help because there is little to no waste at the end. Your garbage gets turned into brand new clothes. The only downside to this would be the pollution from the machines and factories that recycle these textiles, but it is a fraction of the outcomes of making new clothes. The main focus for textile recycling is to reduce pollution caused from making new clothes.
Conclusion
We need to start taking steps to reduce fashion waste. As consumers, we can shop more sustainably by thrifting and buying secondhand clothes. We can upcycle our clothes by turning them into new items to keep them alive. And we can recycle our old clothes by donating them to textile recycling programs to create more sustainable materials and have less clothes in landfills. Companies can use more sustainable materials to create new clothing lines. They can buy and make fewer products. In the end, all of us need to start valuing the planet more and take the time and effort to sustain it. The damage is done; we can’t take back what has happened in the past. All we can do now is start taking the correct steps to prevent fashion waste moving forward.
Call to action
Fashion Revolution was founded in response to the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013. They are one of the biggest fashion activism groups in the world. Their vision is “A global fashion industry that conserves and restores the environment and values people over growth and profit.” They are funded and rely on the support from citizens across the globe to help them create easily accessible resources and promote campaigns that demand a clean and safe industry. If you feel moved by this topic or want to help in any way, their website offers information regarding how you can help.
George Marre is a senior at North Central College. He grew up in a small suburban area not really interested in fashion. He was introduced to the industry around three years ago and fell in love. He loves that people can express themselves through what they wear, and he loves the creativity aspect of the industry. He values self-image very highly and believes the way we present ourselves in turn will change the way people view you. George lives by the saying “every day you need to find something that makes you smile.” He thinks that we should focus on what makes us happy, because in turn we would live in a happier healthier world.